Global fashion brands have become more purposeful in introducing new trends, focusing not only on aesthetics but also on functionality and sustainability, according to the chief of Hansae New York Design Center.
Paul Passavant, who heads the research and development arm of the Korean fashion original design manufacturer (ODM) Hansae, works close to the headquarters of major global brands in New York including Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, Coach and Calvin Klein, in a cluster of roughly 900 fashion firms. Based on Midtown Manhattan’s 7th Avenue, he frequently meets representatives from neighboring companies, and his location at the epicenter of the global fashion industry allows him to observe how influential brands are shifting and what trends capture their interest in real time.
He said that brands today differ from the past, when they “leaned more toward rapid trend turnover.” Now they focus on purposeful design, balancing style, function, sustainability and emotional resonance. He added that brands increasingly emphasize authentic storytelling and seasonal narratives, while innovating in fabrics and finishes to enhance durability, performance and sustainability.
“Compared to the past, brands today want a design that feels timeless, scalable and true to their identity, while still offering freshness and differentiation that will set our customers as trend leaders. The brands now want strategic design clarity and edited assortments that feel intentional, refined and retail-ready,” Passavant said during an email interview with The Korea Times.
To better serve Hansae’s roughly 40 global fashion and retail clients, including longtime partners such as GAP and U.S. chains Walmart and Target, Passavant has revamped his organization, increasingly relying on modern digital technologies to improve accuracy, reduce costs and shorten development timelines.
Paul Passavant, right, and his colleagues work on creating a sample using a digital visualization tool at Hansae New York Design Center earlier this month. Courtesy of Hansae
3D design and virtual sampling are now among his main digital practices to persuade clients, while design tools assisted by artificial intelligence support concept exploration when developing new products. 3D-based fit-and-proportion reviews reduce the need for early physical samples and also cut down on the need for logistics and material waste.
“Digital sampling has become a key part of how we work, allowing us to ideate faster, test more concepts and present clearer stories to our partners,” he said.
Such technological advancement has become critical for the design center to serve clients, as fashion trends now cycle quickly. The technologies not only help make samples better but also help the center grasp global market trends before clients and consumers notice them.
“The fashion ODM industry is moving faster than ever. And the brands expect their ODM partners to anticipate market needs, not just react to them. That means we often operate ahead of the retail calendar, using insights, data and R&D innovation to guide design direction early,” Passavant said. “Rather than simply speeding up, we focus on working smarter, leveraging digital processes and strengthening internal workflows so that our pace doesn’t compromise quality or creativity.”
The center’s latest practices also help it reduce its environmental impact, a major problem in the worldwide fashion industry due to approximately 92 million metric tons of fabric waste each year. Digital sampling allows the center to reduce waste and stay engaged with fabric suppliers and mills to “explore newer, more responsible materials and processes.”
“Sustainability is an ongoing priority for us. We prioritize smart materials and fabric choices informed by our deep research and R&D innovations. Our direct design decisions promote durability, timeless style and ultimately reach consumers in a thoughtful way,” Passavant said.
Employees at Hansae TG’s manufacturing plant in Vietnam’s Tien Giang Province iron fabric in this October 2024 photo. Hansae’s 10 Vietnamese subsidiaries account for more than 60 percent of the company’s global production. Courtesy of Hansae.
Growth since 2008
Hansae New York Design Center opened in 2008, and its parent firm now runs 30 foreign subsidiaries and seven regional offices across 10 countries, including in Southeast Asia and Central America, the U.S. and Spain, with significant growth in scope and capacity. Passavant, an American who has led the center since 2021, started his career at Hansae in 2011. He was part of the R&D team at the firm’s Seoul headquarters in 2017 before joining the New York team to strengthen its partnerships with key brands.
“Beyond headcount, my team’s capacity has grown in terms of the services we provide such as trend research, digital presentation, 3D design, storytelling and market intelligence. As a result, we now take on more complex programs, support a wider set of clients and contribute to larger business opportunities compared to previous years,” Passavant said.
The center sees growing interest from global regions and fashion categories it previously had limited exposure to. As major brands diversify their global footprints, they seek design partners that understand both the U.S. market and broader global consumer shifts.
Working in Manhattan helps the center grab the attention of those brands. The physical closeness to Hansae’s partners, buyers and the city’s key retail districts allows Passavant to stay plugged into cultural shifts and consumer behavior. He and his clients can actually walk to a showroom together, review physical samples in person and have tactile engagement in a high-context collaboration.
“That immediacy helps us move faster, make smarter decisions and ultimately present more compelling, commercially aligned design solutions,” Passavant said. “In the long-term, my goal is to scale the center into an even stronger strategic partner.”
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