Come Together: A Fall 2025 Copenhagen Fashion Week Preview
There are unfamiliar names on the lineup. ALIS is a streetwear remake of a skatewear brand founded in Christiana in 1996 with Tobias Birk Nielsen taking the creative lead. CMMN SWDN’s Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund, who cut their teeth in Paris and London before founding their own label in Malmö, Sweden, are making their runway debut at CFHFW and launching womenswear in the process. Their fellow Swedes at Filippa K will have a presentation in their store. Adding to this cross-region camaraderie, Iceland’s 66°North will have an activation as well.
Personally, I think we need to start thinking about new things in more relative terms. All of the collections will be new, regardless of when or where the brand was founded. Astrid Andersen and Anne Sofie Madsen, who both came up in fashion in the 2010s, are proof of the value of experience. Andersen returned to the fray last season with Stel, a brand that will build upon itself (rather than switching gears every few months) with innovative and functional wardrobe pieces. And Madsen, who put her label on pause in 2017, is dipping her toe back in with an off-schedule presentation promising couture-like touches. New/old, as far as I can see it, is the order of the day; and the ability to perceive time (and by extension novelty) free from a forward, progressive linearity, seems somehow freeing. The grounding that regionality lends CPHFW feels special in an “everything, everywhere, all at once” world.
Bonnetje Clocks In
Copenhagen Fashion Week’s NewTalent program—which aims to support emerging Nordic talents in business less than five years with presentations and mentoring—was launched in 2022, and is now in full swing with designers “graduating” and new ones enrolling. New to the scheme this season are Bonnetje’s Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Hansen who, you might say, are getting right down to business. As the designers’ practice is centered around upcycled suiting, the most traditional of office uniforms, they are inclined to be work obsessed. Yet as the pair de- and reconstruct these garments, they bring to them an element of eroticism. These competing tendencies, towards order and chaos, coverage and exposure, will come together in a show presented in an old office space. The design and paraphernalia of corporate enclaves are a new subject of fascination for Hansen and Myntekær and their collaborators, who will create a worklife-inspired scentscape and soundtrack.
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