June 14, 2024

Fashion Design

Fashion Designs that Enlighten the Soul.

Gucci Cruise 2025: London Calling

2 min read
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LONDON, ENGLAND – MAY 13: A model walks the runway at the Gucci Cruise 2025 Fashion Show at Tate Modern on May 13, 2024 in London, England. (Photo by John Phillips/Getty Images for Gucci)

In London, Gucci presented its Cruise 2025 collection, returning to where it all began for the first time since 2016. While many of the UK’s major fashion players have turned to Paris for their seasonal shows, Sabato De Sarno paid homage to the city that has long inspired the Italian fashion house.

In the 1800s, it was at the iconic Savoy Hotel that a teenage Guccio Gucci sparked a passion for design. While working in the bustling locale, he was inspired to return to his native Florence and eventually establish the house of Gucci in 1921.

The show took place at the Tate Modern, a place that famously connects people from all over the world with culture, a diverse and unique arena for exchange, for unexpected juxtapositions and unanticipated rendezvous. The same was true of The Savoy Hotel, where Gucci was once introduced to a melting pot of cultures and people that influenced his future creative ventures. The building itself is an apt reflection of this, with its modern architecture steeped in function while housing a wealth of stories. Much like the city itself, there are deep roots beneath its contemporary fixtures.

“I owe a lot to this city, it has welcomed and listened to me. The same is true for Gucci, whose founder was inspired by his experience there,” said De Sarno of the setting. “The House’s return is driven by a desire to be immersed in its distinctive essence, its creative driving force with its limitless capability to put together contrasts, make them converse, and find ways to coexist.”

Coexisting‘ was an overarching theme of the collection.

In weaving his own personal connection to the city within the house’s rich tapestry of codes, De Sarno played on a series of dichotomies, merging worlds and concepts to convey a fresh perspective. His quickly established signature of ultra-mini hemlines, fitted tailoring, and ‘Ancora’ red played well with Gucci horsebit hardware, monograms and classic leather silhouettes. Branching out further into eveningwear, De Sarno’s closing looks offered a more uninhibited glamour with pleated chiffon gowns, hand-moulded shaped sequins and laser-cut organza. Rather than contradict with more everyday pieces, though, there is a harmony anchored by a distinctly Italian approach to craftsmanship and refined luxury. It’s only the designer’s third collection as creative director, but his vision is already shaping into a notable chapter in Gucci’s story.

“Fashion design is a means to study, explore, interpret. After having expressed my ideas of desirability and sensuality, this is another piece of me, more romantic, more contradictory,” explained De Sarno of his inspirations. “I like taking something that we think we know and breaking away from its rules, taking it as far as it can go, without ever distorting it.”

“Bringing it towards its opposite and finding harmony.”

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